Sitges, Spain
In front of the Platajador Hotel in Stiges, Spain a group of middle-aged women puff cigarettes and talk as if the loudest and the one who speaks the most over the others wins the day. It’s rapid-fire Spanish with explosions of inflections and laughter, and I have no clue what they’re saying. My Spanish is limited to toddler-speak words like “please and thank you, bathroom, hello and goodbye.”
Sitges is located about an hour by train from Barcelona. My trip took two because of multiple, unplanned lengthy stops that left everyone perplexed and frustrated. At one of these layovers, most of the passengers from our train darted suddenly to another train across the platform as if one of the carriages was about to explode. Naturally, I joined in. Two minutes later, we all darted back. Then a few minutes later, a smaller group ran back to the other train. It reminded me of the childhood game of “red rover, red rover, send Greg right over.” I chose to stay put.
A staticky announcement farted over the antiquated PA system and was of little use even to those who understood Spanish. In situations like these, I tend to look for a friendly face, and I found it in Estelle.
Estelle’s English was good, her Spanish even better. Her willingness to help me, even better. She was in her mid-twenties with shoulder length brown hair and a smile that belonged in a toothpaste advertisement. She worked as a receptionist for a boutique hotel in Sitges. Listening to someone in a different country speak English with their unique local accent is one of travel’s greatest joys. Estelle over apologized for her English, but to me it was a gift.
“I’ve never seen this in seven years of riding the train,’ she explained. Another PA announcement squawked. “Come let’s go,” she said and together we boarded the other train mere seconds before the doors closed. Alas, we were on our way sharing traveling experiences, the effects of the pandemic on Spain’s tourism and her providing recommendations for non-touristy restaurants in Sitges. We parted ways and I set out to find my hotel.
Along the way, I saw folks sipping coffee and snacking on pastries from one of the many cafes along its narrow streets. Couples pushed strollers. People walked dogs. And I did multiple pirouettes at intersections while I consulted Google maps.
After a few rights, lefts and two wrong turns, the blue green water of the Mediterranean Sea came into view. The Passeig Maritim promenade with its soaring and swaying palm trees separates the beach hotels and outdoor restaurants from the beaches. “Passieg” in Catalonian means stroll, and that I did.
The beach area of Sitges had a vibe perhaps reminiscent of what South Beach was like in the 50’s and 60’s. Instead of art deco and neon, buildings along the waterfront were a wonderful blend of 19th century and modernistic architecture. While Sitges is known for its minimalist whitewashed buildings, along the waterfront many of the buildings were painted in soft greys, tan and pale, pale blue. It’s apparent why this place has become a popular “holiday” destination for European travelers for close to 150 years.
The growth of Sitges as a holiday destination can be attributed to the introduction of a train line from Barcelona in 1881. It was likely much faster than my train ride in 2023. Not too long after the rail line was established, construction of hotels and restaurants began which satisfied the need of tourists from far and wide.
Today, Sitges is often referred to as the St Tropez of Spain thanks to its luxury villas, glitzy nightlife and pristine beaches. It’s also referred to as one of the world’s top leaders in the protection and advocation of equal rights for the LGBT community. Come summer, it's often described as the gay capital of Europe.
At La Cantina De Stiges, a seashell’s throw from my hotel, I struck up a conversation with Reginald and his partner Etan. Both hail from a village near Stratford Upon Avon in England. Reginald is 60-ish. He’s tan, fit and bald. He makes up for the lack of hair on his head with thick, bushy white hair on his forearms and shoulders. Etan is maybe 10 to 15 years younger with hair black as coal and swirl tattoos on both biceps. Both are dressed in Sitges casual: tank tops, swim trunks and flip flops. This is their fifth holiday here.
Being very gay friendly does play a role in its appeal for them, but it goes well beyond that. Beautiful beaches, sunny weather, eclectic food scene and direct flights from London to Barcelona play a role. So much so, they are planning on spending more time here.
“We love it here so much that this time we’re searching for a holiday home tomorrow,” Reginald said, "It's very expensive, though. An apartment facing the water with a terrace costs more than £700. Two blocks in, it’s more like £300. But we need a terrace for the sun. As you know, it’s often overcast in England.
Etan quipped, “I think the gay community and gay visitors are actually driving up the prices. We have more disposable income because we don’t have children.” Their dinner arrived so our conversation waned.
I took that as my queue to head to Platja de la Ribera, the beach in front of my hotel and one of Sitges’s 17 beaches, according to the city’s tourism website. In my opinion, that number is a bit misleading because rock jetties —no more than 100 meters long —separate one beach from another. My unofficial beach count along this section of the Mediterranean is six, tops.
Numbers aside, it was a lovely spring afternoon with temperatures in the low 70’s. Tourists sprawled on the beach/beaches. Some braved the chilly water, and a few women opted to go topless which is allowed in Spain but did catch me by surprise.
Stiges was a welcome surprise in many ways. It’s relatively close to Barcelona. In fact, when I left it was only a 30-minute bus ride to the airport. It’s crazy clean. Maintenance workers spend a good portion of their days, power washing streets and sidewalks. Last but not least, it’s a very welcoming town, even to visitors who speak a jumbled version of toddler Spanish and are ofeen seen doing pirouettes at intersections.
Where I stayed
Hotel Platjador faces the Mediterranean, and the rooms are very spacious. My room featured a massive king-sized bed, and my balcony overlooked the pool area and a neighboring apartment where laundry was on full display. Rooms in early May were $130 a night and included breakfast that rivaled any cruise ship buffet. They offered traditional fare like made to order omelets and pastries, but there was also a wide selection of cured meats, breads, and even octopus salad, ceviche, smoked salmon, cheeses and fruit I’ve never seen before. Breakfast here means you can likely skip lunch.
How to get from Sitges From Barcelona
From Barcelona Airport, take the bus. It takes 30 minutes and costs about 7€. From the Estación de Francia train station near the Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter it should take less than an hour and costs 4.50€